Paris Spring 2019 Couture: The Bigger, The Bolder, The Better
Bigger, bolder, better, was the mantra that designers seemed to be threading their needles to. While couture has always showed off the inspirational aspect of fashion, this season, designers capitalized on that message and showed off their exceptional dressmaking skills and brought couture to a new level.
At Viktor and Rolf, whose couture collection was designed to show “the expressive power of clothing”, social media statements and one-liners were plastered on the front of romantic, rainbow colored, voluminous tulle gowns. “I’m not shy, I just don’t like you”, “Whatever”, “Sorry I’m late, I didn’t want to come”, were among some of the phrases that added drama to the extravagant silhouettes.
In line with the theme of theatrics, Maria Grazia Chiuri brought the circus to the Dior show, who looked at depictions of circus from paintings to photographs. Models walked around a circus ring wearing crinoline gowns, semitransparent dresses with ruffles and suits in a sea of blacks, whites and beiges with a smattering of jewel-tone colors.
Elsewhere, at Maison Margiela, John Galliano proved that he wasn’t afraid of using color. Staged against a graffiti backdrop, Margiela also turned to social media to guide his aesthetic. It was a commentary on the overstimulation of computer graphics and this was shown with rainbow graphics, which he made even sharper against his deconstructed yet tailored collection. A quilted jacket had large pockets on both sides, skirts looked as if they were reconstructed from blazers and the sleeves of a structured overcoat overflowed with rainbow feathers.