"Guccify Yourself" and Gvasalia's Condemnation
From East to West, past to present and old to new, fashion has always enjoyed playing yo-yo with us. Presenting us with the possibilities of space travel at Chanel’s Fall 2017 show earlier this year to recreating cave paintings on skirts rendered in Dior’s Cruise collection… fashion is a capricious beast. So it comes as no surprise when Vetement’s own Demna Gvasalia announced that he had tired of oversized silhouettes and his sartorial approach no longer included looking to subcultures for reference. What might this new aesthetic be, we’re still as clueless as you are. But it seems that designers are on a similar brainwave as Gvasalia, genderless silhouettes and streetstyle influences are taking a backseat on the runway. And like the tide, fashion has trickled down a different stream.
It may be due to the Gucci effect, where the latest cruise collection set out clear directives to “Guccify Yourself” which as a summation of Michele’s diction means the return of the Renaissance. We can chalk it up to a few simple terms, romantic, eccentric and most definitely effeminate.
This softer look is taking preference on the catwalk. We see Simone Rocha’s continued elegance on the runway, florals, lace, sheer fabrics and frills; Sarah Burton’s toned-down approach to the theatrics that ruled the Alexander McQueen runways presenting beautiful, long and flowing handkerchief-point skirts. And Alberta Feretti’s newly released AW17 campaign featured fantastical prints on elegant gowns, even Marques Almeida has forgone some of his signature structured denim in favour of more feminine silhouettes.
Although streetstyle influences will forever remain a staple in our wardrobes, we’re trading in our joggers for skirts these coming months.